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Our 10-Day Family Trip To Belize – Highlights, Good To Knows, And Why I’d Choose Belize Over Hawaii

This trip to Belize felt like our first entry into traveling with the kids, not vacation. We didn’t “backpack” (only carry-ons, though), we stayed in nicer hotels (not bunk room hostels), and we had a fully planned agenda (by yours truly), but the spirit of “travel” was there. We moved around, saw so much of the country, and my god, we came back with stories and a lot of hard-wired family connections. Fifteen years ago, Brian and I, broke and depressed during the recession, backpacked around Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand for 9 weeks. We saw couples traveling with their babies/toddlers, shirking all normal expectations, bedtimes, or routines in exchange for experiencing the world. We naively promised that would be us. And then…we went back to life in LA, circa 2009 – I started the blog, won a reality show, had two kids, bought a house (or two), had a couple mental breakdowns, pandemic, and landed in a farm outside of Portland. Needless to say, we are not those people. But this trip felt so educational, cultural, and adventurous (which I think is my vacation happy place now that the kids aren’t toddlers – see more on that below).

Why Belize?

Highly recommended by a few school friends, Belize was described as a “Better Costa Rica” (Impossible! I take offense!). Why? Well, it has the tropical weather and rain forest, but in addition, the Caribbean waters + Belize Barrier Reef + caves, and Mayan ruins. I’m listening. Essentially, just so much to do, learn, and see, but small enough that we could really see the whole country in 10 days. What we didn’t know til we arrived was that English is the official language (it was The British Honduras til the 1980s) and they take American dollars. It’s way more African/Caribbean than it was Spanish, which we didn’t know (despite Mexico being its neighboring country). It’s incredibly easy to travel and felt really safe. That’s all to say if you are thinking about going to Hawaii because you don’t want to deal with a language barrier, currency exchange, then Belize could be for you. It wasn’t as affordable as some countries in Central America, but certainly more affordable than Hawaii, and if you’re in Texas or Georgia/Florida, it takes less than 4 hours to fly direct.

I did a ton of research, read so many reviews on Reddit and Trip Advisor, and I planned the hell out of this trip (and did a fantastic job if I do say so myself). In fact, a couple of the local guides asked me how we were able to find the 3 best places to visit in Belize. Answer: hours of Saturday morning research. I wanted three distinct towns/experiences. And boy, did we get them. So let’s get into the highlights.

Caye Caulker – A Tiny Island, Ambergris Caye’s Little Sister

We landed in Belize City and took a jumper flight to Caye Caulker (10 minutes, 10 people), which is a tiny island near the reef. No cars, just golf carts, bare feet, sand, and a lot of backpackers and warm locals. We opted for Caye Caulker over Ambergris Caye because it was the smaller, less touristy route, and frankly, I try my absolute best to avoid crowds/traffic on vacation, so I was nervous about that (but turns out Ambergris Caye is not that crowded either, just more established and higher end + cars).

IT WAS RAD. While it’s “touristy”, sure, we met so many guides that lived there from birth, and nary a McDonald’s in sight. Just a lot of backpackers and families like ours who are down for adventure. It’s 3 miles long and you can eat your dinner in a swing that sits in the warm Caribbean water while later feeding/petting sting rays at sunset (not to mention the tarpon feeding). We stayed at El Ben, which was great, but too far away from town for us (across The Split, which required a 10-minute walk and a tiny 3-minute boat ride). Next time we will stay in town. (El Ben was very peaceful and quiet, great thatched style rooms, AC with good bedding – it was great, just further than we wanted to be – awesome honeymoon spot).

The Snorkeling – Out Of This World

One of the best places in the world to snorkel, along a great barrier reef. We booked a full day with Caveman (fantastic and run by locals). The highlight was the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, which is a break in the reef where all the marine life comes in from the ocean to feed on the bay life – we saw dolphins, families of manatees, sting rays, huge schools of fish, nurse sharks – it was WILD. We just looked down and saw them all crossing the “street” right below us, coming in to feed. BLOWN AWAY.

Shark Alley is also a must.  If you are doing a more private group tour I think you can skip some of the other locations for those two (also we got burnt out after 5 hours – our PNW skin is very sensitive and I felt like it was my full time job to put on sunscreen which then we had to wait to get into the water for eco purposes, etc). Oh, but afterwards we sat in swings in the teal Caribbean water and sipped on drinks.

The Split is a dope place to hang. You don’t need more than 2 full days/nights in Caye Caulker, but if you stay longer, there are a lot of boat excursions to other islands. Oh, and the Great Blue Hole (a famous heritage site) is more for diving than snorkeling, and is a 2-hour ride out to it, so what we were told is that skip it unless you are diving.

San Ignacio – The Rain Forest

The Caribbean beach is GREAT, but if you can stay longer in Belize, you have to get to the rain forest – and Belize is famous for its caves and Mayan ruins. YOU CANNOT MISS THE ATM CAVE. It’s basically a 4 mile long cave re-discovered in the 80s that houses centuries, millennial! of Mayan sacrifices that are well preserved – real Indiana Jones shit.

It’s challenging (7 hours including the drive, hike, and cave, many cave swims up to your neck, squeezing between rocks all miles inside the earth) and yet the payoff is so WORTH IT. You can’t watch videos online or even see good photos because they aren’t allowed inside, so we almost skipped it (it’s also expensive, like $70 per person). I don’t want to spoil what you’ll see, and I’m sure your experience will rely on how good your guide is – ours was great.  It has to be guided, BTW, and only 70 tours a day – and it’s likely going to close to the public in the next 10 years due to wear and tear on the artifacts. I rank it 15/10. We learned so much fascinating history about the Mayan culture, and seeing it with your own eyes really imprints. Since there were no photos or videos, we had the kids make a video describing it, and they retained so much insane information about Mayan religion, shape of heads, etc. Oh, and I think the youngest you could be is 7/8 – Elliot was by FAR the youngest at 9 years old, and she was great, but much younger, we would have been nervous. Def not for everyone.

us after the atm cave – feeling very accomplished. kids couldn’t stop talking/thinking about it.

We stayed at Chaa Creek resort, which is one of the first rainforest resorts (30 years old) and it’s fantastically run. I was afraid it would be a little basic, tired, old, but it was wonderful. Delicious food, great service, and a billion guided tours (so no need to rent a car – but the guided tours aren’t cheap). Wildly family-friendly and for all ages. Pool, spa, horseback riding, butterfly farm, and wonderful thatched roof style rooms that are quiet and clean. Not cheap but not crazy luxury – properly priced for how good it was IMHO. We did a 5-mile canoe trip to town, hiked the ruins (you don’t need to see more than one IMHO), and one afternoon we gave the kids back their precious devices so we could get massages. ABSOLUTE HEAVEN. Live music, delicious N/A and happy hour drinks. 10/10.

Hopkins Village

To round out our tour, I booked us a beachside room in Hopkins Village, a fishing village that is quaint, quiet, and very special, full of Garufina influences (a lot of African influenced food). This came at the end of a lot of physical adventure and felt like a true VACATION. The beach is teal and clean, and the sand is bright white. And it has a very low population. Not a lot of big action, so expect to take day trips, chill, or just hang out on their incredibly memorable dock bar with hammocks. We had a big “down day” here – biked to lunch, read together on hammocks, watched a movie – just ate and drank and chilled. The beach was incredible (but windy, not sure how normal that is).

We stayed at The Lodge at Jaguar Reef, which was great and on the more luxurious side, but not pretentious. Felt a bit honey-moony but pretty darn great for families, too. We didn’t get in the water much (there were a lot of jellyfish and again the wind was high), and I felt that the restaurant was a bit too fancy for the vibe, but this is the resort that the kids loved the most (I think because it gave “fancy”). We liked it and would go back, but 8/10 because of the wind and the oddness of the restaurant (seating times, expensive, and oddly far apart tables). The dock bar/restaurant was a 20/10 and likely one of the more memorable places of our lives (thus why we would go back). We spent hours out there all reading together in the hammocks and jumping off the top (not me, did it once and was TERRIFIED).

Ended With The Best Hike

antelope falls hike – difficult but paid off

We forced the kids out on a big hike on our second-to-last day (like I said, Hopkins is pretty slow), it was intense and paid off. We did the Antelope Falls hike in Mayflower Bocawina National Park. It was pretty difficult (needed ropes a lot, very vertical, often rock climbing, kids would have complained the whole time had we not bribed them). But they were totally able to do it, and the payoff was this incredible waterfall swimming hole at the top that felt secret (and no one else was there). We asked them at the top if it was worth it, and they both reluctantly said, YES. So special. Bring a ton of water and snacks – it took us 3-4 hours.

outside chaa creek

Good To Knows: 

  1. Like Disneyland/World, if you are only going to Belize once in your kids’ childhood, you should wait til they are 8, the age they can happily snorkel and do the ATM cave and understand the ruin stories. It’s totally toddler-friendly, but you will be missing out on some of the best “rides”. 
  2. Our food at Chaa Creek was awesome because they have their own farm, but the rest of the trip was rice and meat-friendly. Good for sure, we were never bummed, but don’t expect organic or a large variety (Costa Rica food impressed us greatly – couldn’t get a bad meal). Embrace the Creole culture (fried whole fish) and tropical drinks :)
  3. There are a lot more affordable family-friendly resorts than where we went – more rustic and totally fun. Brian and I can be bougie, so we wanted nicer places to stay to ensure we slept well and could walk places since we didn’t have a car, but if you are on more of a budget, this resort and others were highly recommended and probably more charming. The Jaguar Reef is admittedly on the more expensive side (although a beachside 2-bedroom condo with a big kitchen and tiny plunge pool for $600 felt totally reasonable to us).
  4. We hired the hotels to transfer us (a service they advertise as easy, and it really was), which was awesome, but it added up for sure. The country is set up for tourism, so it’s easy. The guides are great, and we learned so much from these long drives with the drivers. I asked them all my burning questions, “What is elementary school like? Can gay people get married here? How do they feel about Americans retiring here? Why are there so many Mennonites and Amish here? Do you watch American news? What do people here think of Trump?, etc. I was met with such openness, and they were all so grateful for my curiosity (thus me continuing to ask…I read the room). Listen, I’m not going to another country without my kids understanding the actual culture and finding out that the perception of America is always fascinating and mind-expanding. We learned so much about Mayan culture and even the challenging history of Guatemala (bordering country). The guides in the tourism industry take a lot of pride in their knowledge, and we were so grateful for it.
  5. Bring American cash (in 5’s, 10’s, and 20’s). Which brings me to tipping – As a water/bartender from the ages of 15 – 25, I am a massive believer in the power of tipping. That bump from 15 – 25% simply makes your day/life/rent. If you can, tip a lot (20-30%), it can really make such a huge difference for people.

We truly loved Belize and would absolutely go back – A solid 10/10 for an adventure, nature-based vacation (and also GREAT for groups of friends and couples – you can also just lie out and drink all day in the water should that please you). People ask all the time which country/trip we liked more, Costa Rica or Belize, and I’d say we loved them equally for different reasons. A bit more adventure/history in Belize, but we preferred the food and eco-friendly culture in Costa Rica. Both are very nature-based and extremely friendly to tourists. We feel so so so grateful to be able to do this with our kids and came back with incredible family memories that are now part of our shared history. Y’all Central American, FTW :) Ask questions in the comments, and I’ll do my best to answer! (P.S. I used Reddit and TripAdvisor a ton, too.)

the split

Also, I’m a TERRIBLE travel blogger, with just janky, totally unedited iPhone shots, but hopefully it helps you if you are ever thinking of going there. I can’t recommend this family-friendly Belize vacation enough! :)

Fin
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Tiffanie
3 days ago

Looks like a very, very good time! Two questions. I’m a single mom, would you feel safe traveling to Belize and Costa Rica alone without Brian, just you and the kids? I typically vacation 4-5 days at a time. For a 10 day trip, did you pack 10 outfits each launder back home or less clothes and washed there?

Caitlin
3 days ago

Yay! So glad you had an amazing time and thank you for sharing this!!

Susan
3 days ago

Actually Belize WAS part of Guatemala. The British decided they wanted part of it, it became British Honduras, then Belize. On a tour to a Mayan ruin in Guatemala, there is a sign saying, if I remember correctly, ‘entering Guatemala, but coming back into Belize there is no signposted saying entering Belize. Wonderful country!

Nona White
2 days ago
Reply to  Susan

Guatemala is currently trying to claim the southern part of Belize. The matter is going through the International Justice Court currently.

Fulani
1 day ago
Reply to  Nona White

Unfortunately you are incorrect. Belize has always been separate from Guatemala except when it was all ruled by the Mayans. When it was colonized Belize (British Honduras) was ruled by the English and Guatemala by the Spanish. Hence the reason English is the official language of Belize and not Spanish.

Ross
11 hours ago
Reply to  Fulani

Not really correct to say the ‘English’, it was the British. Britain is more than just England. This is a most common mistake. Take heid folks.

Jangkunu
1 day ago
Reply to  Susan

Belize was never a part of Guatemala; I spose geographically, it is all one land mass! the Spaniards ruled the whole area at about de same time Br.Hond. was being settled by Buccaneers & African slaves! Belize from then had it’s own government while Guatemala was still throwing out it’s Spanish rulers!

stacey
2 days ago

I’ve been to Costa Rica and loved it, and Hawaii several times, so based on this, Belize has now been added to the list! Curious about the bug situation, as I’m a magnet. Were there mosquitos? Were you constantly applying bug spray?

Kendra
1 day ago
Reply to  stacey

I just came from Belize. I purchased a home there this year. Love this place for all the reasons mentioned in this post. But the mosquitoes is relentless. I only had to apply deep wood off once. I’ve stayed in San Pedro and Belize City. I’ve been to Costa Rica as well. Fell in love with the eco friendly place and the people are great.

suzanna
1 day ago
Reply to  stacey

I’m afraid I have to disagree with Emily but I live on the big island of Ambergris Caye. Water is everywhere. So are mosquitos, no see-ums and sand fleas. Worse during the witching hour. I am a magnet not so much my husband though we use the very same bathing and local natural repellant which works well but is expensive. I should add we beach walk several miles a day and all dining is done outside so you’re just in the thick of it more. People are fabulous. Food is always decent but can be absolutely fantastic. It is safe with normal cautions like anywhere.

Amy
2 days ago

This looks like an amazing trip!! I am also the primary planner for my family so I have questions :) Can you break down some of the travel/logistics specifics for us, for example:
*Day 1 – Flew into ___airport, how did you transfer from airport to hotel (did hotel arrange a bus then boat to Caye Caulker?) How long did that take?
*Spent Days 1-X in CC, then transferred to Rainforest hotel – did the rainforest hotel make those arrangements from CC or did you have to do that yourself? How long did that transfer take?
*Spent days X-X at rainforest hotel and saw ATM cave. Did you arrange that excursion through the hotel?
*Ended at Hopkins Village. If you had to skip a leg of the trip, would you skip this one? Just asking in case someone has less than 10 days to use on vacation…
Thanks for sharing, Emily! Glad you had a safe trip.

Nona White
2 days ago

Garifuna are the people from Hopkins. Garifuna are from Honduras not Guyana.

Jangkunu
1 day ago
Reply to  Nona White

More specifically, the Garifuna settled all along the Mosquito Coast, which includes Nicaragua!

KC
2 days ago

I love these posts! My kids are a year or two behind yours so this helps me to plan our summer vacations for 2027! We frequently plan our trips 1-2 years in advance so these recommendations are so so welcome.

Michelle
2 days ago

This is so interesting as someone who has considered both Costa Rica and Belize. I have heard that Costa Rica was the first to truly embrace eco-tourism – learning a lot from the ravages Guatemala has endured from outside investment. Belize then followed, learning from Costa Rica. I’m sure there is a lot more to the story but talking to people who have visited all three they say some of the differences support this narrative. While the food scene of Costa Rica sounds compelling (we can be a little bougie too), I am fascinated by the cave swim you described. Thanks again for your generosity in sharing your experiences. Although I can’t help but be curious about the answers to some of your questions. What ARE there so many Mennonite/Amish people there? Do they look like they do here in the midwest?

suzanna
1 day ago
Reply to  Michelle

The mennonites (not old order Amish) are crucial to Belize’s food supply. They make up a VERY small population and are greatly respected. They make twice weekly delivery’s to the island I live on, Ambergris Caye twice a week. They produce enough to be able to export. Belize charges an import fee up to 40% so local and seasonal is the way to eat. For instance they grow limes but lemons are imported thus we use limes. Yes they dress modestly and some still use horse and buggy. The tropical climate is hard on modern machinery. Eco-tourism is not currently happening in Belize far to much corruption at the government level and local people just trying to make a living.

Kat
2 days ago

Are there any places that you would add or go to next time that you heard about while on the trip?

Kat
2 days ago
Reply to  Emily

Thank you so much, this might be our summer trip!

Grace
2 days ago

Jaguar Reef!! We went to Belize for our honeymoon ten years ago (?!) this October, and stayed at Jaguar Reef after an amazing stay in the rainforest at Sleeping Giant. Now you’ve got me thinking we should plan a reunion trip with our son!

Jessica Strayer
2 days ago
Reply to  Grace

My husband and I went in 2013 for our first anniversary! I was looking into it last year as we wanted to take our kids and was shocked to see it had been completely redone! We stayed in a thatched roof cabana with terracotta tile floors and it’s now all chrome and modern!

Katie
2 days ago

Have been considering this destination for a while. Thanks for taking time to share your trip! Very helpful. Pics are perfect :)

Sonja
2 days ago

Aww, I love Belize!! In fact, I was just trying to get back there for Christmas.

How was the sargassum grass situation? It doesn’t look bad in your photos.

I’ve been to both Belize (and Costa Rica) several times and I agree that they both have their own appeal. I can’t wait until I can take my kids out to Caye Caulker/Glover’s Atoll as I’m trying to get them into diving; their water-spots adventure package is so much fun but we’d definintely have to go in to the rainforest for a bit as my kids would go crazy for the ATM cave. Thanks for sharing.

Sam
2 days ago

Hey! Just wondering what time of year you went? We went to Ambergris Caye for Christmas and it was crazy hot and buggy! We couldn’t be outside unless we were in the water and all 15 of us had a bazillion horrible itchy bug bites!

T.
2 days ago

As a diver who adores Belize… The Blue Hole is amazing, but it should definitely NOT be your first deep dive. Have a couple of 100+ and night dives under your belt before you go, and you will enjoy it so much more. Besides the hole, the reef diving is absolutely amazing, and a lot easier. Very caribbean-like.

Suz
2 days ago

MIL here. Even thought I got to hear about the trip from you, Brian & the kids, this post really brought it to life. Sounds like paradise. Loved all the photos & honestly, I think you have a future as a travel writer.❤️

Jessica Strayer
2 days ago

We love Belize! Central America really is where it’s at! Fun story, my husband and I stayed at Jaguar Reef in 2013 for our 1st anniversary so i immediately looked into it last year when we decided to take our kids (8&10). I was shocked to find it had been completely torn down and redone! We stayed in a thatched roof cabana with a hammock on the porch and terracotta tile floors. I had to dig out our pictures and compare the reception building to verify it was the same place! We were going for a different vibe and ended up at Beaches and Dreams down the road, and it was wonderful. So glad your family loved it, definitely noted a few new ideas for next time!

Shikha
2 days ago

hello! Was the water calm for snorkeling. Would you recommend it for non-swimmer adults? My kiddo is a strong swimmer but I am not.
We are headed there in December this year!

Lo
2 days ago
Reply to  Shikha

Speaking of swimming. I’d love to know how challenging ATM cave hike is for not strong swimmers. It sounds like it’s a no-go?

Stacey
2 days ago

Thank you for sharing! What a lovely family you have.

Keisha
2 days ago

Beautiful Belize. Thanks for sharing.

Amy M
2 days ago

This is so funny. After I read your Costa Rica trip, I thought “you guys need to go to Belize!” We went 2 years in a row because the kids loved it so much (and still say it’s their #1 place). The second time, we did your exact trip— Caye Caulker (stayed at Iguana Reef where you go for the sting rays), Chaa Creek then Jaguar Reef in Hopkins. We have 2 kids similar age to yours and love to travel with them. I highly recommend an Atlantic Canada summer trip (Nova Scotia and PEI) or Vancouver Island (Victoria, Tofino, Hornby Island). So much beautiful nature to explore and fun excursions on both those trips.

Amy
2 days ago
Reply to  Amy M

OK now we need YOU to provide a trip summary/itinerary for the Atlantic Canada trip and Vancouver trip :) I’m always looking for ideas from “normal” people who have had amazing experiences on vacation!

Jen
2 days ago

Great minds think alike! Ironically, my family did Costa Rica two years ago and Belize most recently for spring break this year. We had some overlap in our itineraries, and if you want a future idea, we rented a catamaran for a few days. It was incredible! Our kids had a blast. A special way to see remote locations and enjoy family time.

Katie
2 days ago

Just here to validate the insane amount of work it takes to plan a trip like this – you did such an awesome job. Belize looks incredible, and am definitely adding it to my bucket list. Thank you for sharing!

Keisha
2 days ago

What a wonderful article! I love Belize, and I’m so glad to hear your family enjoyed it as well. My husband is Belizean; he is Garifuna and from a town not too far from Hopkins called Dangriga. I wanted to correct a small part of your article—it’s Garifuna, not Guyanese people as Guyana is in South America. Sorry my husband wouldn’t let me not clarify as Garifunas are very proud of their culture and history.

When visiting family, I prefer staying in Hopkins, as there are many great lodging options. Jaguar Reef is lovely, as is Belizean Dreams. If you’re looking to splurge, Hamanasi is a fantastic resort. Glad to hear you weren’t overwhelmed with the mosquitos as they can be brutal depending on the season. (Wet/dry) I always travel with tons of repellent when we go as they seem to like me way more than my hubby. Regardless it’s still one of my favorite places to travel. The vibe is just oh so welcoming and the people are so friendly.

Thanks for this wonderful article—it reminded me that it’s time to go back and to put a pause on this hustle and bustle day to day rat race.

April
2 days ago

I am happy to have read about your vacation. However in Hopkins village . The culture was not Guianess African but Garifuna. Mostly Garifuna live there. Next time ask to learn how to cook hudut and dance punta in Hopkins. Beautiful and happy you and your family enjoyed. See you soon

Jonnie
2 days ago

Hey, this is so well written! Thanks for the insight on all of this. Random question. Did you guys need to get any update on shots like Typhoid or YF? How were the mosquitoes in more remote areas? My wife and I are expecting so just a little more cautious. Thanks so much for your thoughts!

Kristal
2 days ago

I too went down the Belize rabbit hole researching and discovered Caye Caulker. I’ve been going back and forth on going after our son’s wedding in December. I’m thinking it would be a great retreat to decompress instead of coming back home to a quiet house mid holiday season. Thank you for sharing your finds!

V
1 day ago

Tiny typo: Garifuna (not Garufina).

For readers: The Garifuna are of mixed African-Caribbean native ancestry and have a very interesting history. There are communities along the coast from Belize stretching over to Nica. They have their own language but in the Spanish-speaking countries, they also speak Spanish.

Thanks for sharing, Emily!

Fulani
1 day ago

I have one correction to your blog. All of the food there is organic unless you eat or drink any of the prepackaged food from the US or Europe. When you go back you can visit other spots there. Belize City isn’t bad either just more geared towards shopping, casinos, or nightclubs. Additionally there are various museums scattered throughout the country.

kelly
1 day ago

Get ready for a good chuckle. I didn’t know your kids’ names. So, when I saw that first pic of them I thought, “Wow, those are original names! A boy named Caye and a girl named Caulker.”

I have a Beck (38), Teal (36), and Tait (33) so I am a true lover of unusual names. But I sure thought you had me beat!

Brittney Saylor
1 day ago

this review was great ! Will definitely save ! Our favorite place to travel to is Costa Rica (about to go for fourth time ! we have heard about Belize though quite a bit ! love the comparison! thank you
Do tourists rent cars in Belize ?

Julia
19 hours ago

We have been circling the drain on Belize for years but I think that my youngest is finally old enough to handle the adventure portion of things. Question – what was your transfer from Caye to Caulker to Chaa Creek? Iguana reef is booked the first part of the week we want to go so was considering doing this itinerary backwards but don’t know how much of a hassle the transfer from BZE to Chaa Creek will look vs the puddle jumper plane from BZE to CC. Thank you!

Lori
15 hours ago

We LOVED Caye Caulker. So relaxed and lovely. Looks like a wonderful family time.

JoJo
36 seconds ago

Was the water crystal blue or seagrass?

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